What makes cosmetics do: chemist-technologist about the 5 most popular components of the year
The founder of the cosmetic brand Pure Love Katerina Karpova, a chemist technologist and a member of the National Society of Cosmetic Chemists disassembles the trend ingredients of cosmetics and explains how they work
The founder of the cosmetic brand PURE LOVE Katerina Karpova – a chemist technologist and a member of the National Society of Cosmetic Chemists – disassembles the actual ingredients of cosmetics and explains how they work.
Copper add to cosmetics as peptides. If silver has been used for quite a long time as an antibacterial component, then copper, or rather a peptide based on it, work as a powerful antioxidant.
"Copper is introduced into the recipe more often as an antimicrobial additive that has proven itself in synergy with silver. It can also be added to anti-aging cosmetics, as it improves microcirculation in the skin and is used to restore its elasticity by stimulating the synthesis of elastin and collagen.
One of the main components of the year was Hamamelis, or "Witch Hojn" (Witch Hazel), for its multifunctionality. Hammamelis has knitting properties, so used as an anti-inflammatory and antiseptic agent. Suitable for fatty or sensitive skin with inflammation, acne and advanced pores.
"Hydrolate Hammamelis has pronounced anti-inflammatory properties, can reduce skin irritation after sunlight and remove pain. It is used in breeding to 25%. This means that in its pure form it is not recommended to apply in the form of tonic, so as not to cause skin drainage and not increase its sensitivity.
Cyanobacteria (or Spirulina, Blue Algae) entered the list of the three most important cosmetics components of 2019 in the opinion of the MINTEL research company. They hold moisture in the skin, saturated with vitamins and minerals and contribute to the elimination of free radicals (which are known to appear from excess of ultraviolet radiation, stress, smoking and other things).
"Sine-green algae contains many proteins, minerals and polyunsaturated fatty acids that have high bioavailability. This gives additional nutrition for the skin, strengthening its hydrolypide mantle. Ficotianin, which gives the color of algae, has pronounced antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and also gives a gentle blue shade with cosmetics. Algae of different species are now very relevant in the cosmetic industry, but funds with people with sensitive skin should be used with caution and draw preliminary tests, since there is a risk of allergic reactions ".
This component was first widely spoken up last year as a vegetable alternative to Retinol. Bakuciol is obtained from a plant Psoralea Corylifolia. Cosmetic technologists claim that it is suitable for sensitive skin, does not increase its photosensitivity and, like Retinol, contributes to the development of collagen.
"Bakuchiol is a very promising component in the prevention of premature aging and in combining acne treatments. There are many studies on it that compare its action with retinol. It has a low irritant potential at an effective concentration. I love it to use in serum, after two months of use, the skin has become visually tight. It is important to understand that Bakuchiol is a very expensive ingredient and means with it can not be cheap ".
Among all fruit-berry components, pumpkin becomes the most promoted. Pumpkin enzymes are used for soft exfoliation. There is a lot of vitamin A in it, so manufacturers write on packaging of funds with a pumpkin word like "for radiance".
"Pumpkin enzymes, like many fermented extracts possess a good keratolic property. These components are a modern alternative to scrubs, gently exfoliating skin without mechanical damage. They work on the surface of the skin, do not penetrate in deep layers of epidermis, unlike AHA acids. They can be used even on sunny days without risk to strengthen pigmentation, they do not cause skin irritation. Their work occurs due to the weakening of protein ties between horny flakes. They are comparable in efficiency with grenade enzymes, papaya, pineapples and bacteri bacillus bacteria. Such tools can be used even for sensitive skin and skin with signs of Cooperiz ".